The name Bones is appropriate for such a spare, sleek space. It fits the streamlined menu, too. But the flavors of the Asian-inspired small plates and noodle bowls flowing from the tiny open kitchen? They’re anything but bare bones.

Known primarily for his simultaneously soulful and sly approach to contemporary Italian cookery at Luca d’Italia and Osteria Marco, chef-owner Frank Bonanno (who also owns the much-celebrated Mizuna) takes a no less playfully forward tack here—pulling short ribs for eggolls, ultra-refining ramen with poached lobster, and roasting the best, yes, bone marrow in town.