Downscale, upscale, Asian, Italian—as chef-owner of four of Denver’s best-loved eateries (including Bones and Osteria Marco), Frank Bonanno does it all.  At small, elegantly low-key Mizuna, he does it with a contemporary bent that has won him acclaim for a decade and counting. With the exception of lobster mac-and-cheese—Mizuna’s neoclassic signature dish—most of the menu changes monthly, but the emphasis is always on seasonal, carefully-sourced luxuries: a three-course meal might run from crisped veal sweetbreads served with caper aioli over a garlic-potato fritter and grilled ramps, move on to rack of lamb with herbed goat cheese gnudi in a parmesan emulsion, and end every bit as lusciously with a lemongrass parfait or butterscotch soufflé. It might also run you a tab in the three-digit range—but what’s a special occasion for if not splurging?