The menu is mostly small plates, but instead of an annoying sprawl of platters that don’t fit on the table, the delicious spreads and dips are presented in small bowls. Who wouldn’t swoon over the slurry of piquillo peppers with feta or the thick Lebanese yogurt with olive oil, lemon and dried oregano? They’re wonderful spread on warm, freshly baked flatbread.

The menu is fresh and appealing, the flavors big and rustic. I love the artichoke leaves, charred at the edges from cooking in the wood-burning oven. Cauliflower florets come perfumed with vaudovan (a French curry powder) and dotted with cashew nuts. And instead of the ubiquitous pizza, Cleo is serving Mediterranean flatbreads.