The Bazaar also features vitrines curated by Murray Moss of Manhattan’s (and West Hollywood’s) hyper-design shop Moss, and if you see something you’ve just got to have — a fabulously expensive Nymphemburg porcelain tchotchke, a gilded piglet piggy bank, a vintage model powerboat, a fetching pair of gentleman’s shoes or, my favorite, a set of finger puppets depicting five or six notables (including Maharishi Mahesh Yogi) — why, by all means break out that platinum credit card. The rest of us will just goggle.

The Bazaar has some of the same theatricality, but it’s more accessible. And more fun. I don’t think I’ve ever been to a serious restaurant (serious in the sense that each dish is a revelation) that was as engaging and playful. Yet each dish has a kind of laser precision, especially the more contemporary ones from the Blanca side of the menu.